Restaurants

Cero: Elegance in Simplicity

With its view of the water, beautiful architecture and ideal location, the St. Regis in Fort Lauderdale is the newest luxury resort to take advantage of everything the Fort Lauderdale beachfront has to offer.

Elegant, stylish, and refreshing, the St. Regis not only offers beautiful accommodations in an effortlessly luxurious setting, it also has produced a restaurant whose service, ambiance and food far surpass all expectations. Cero, with its stunning view of the Atlantic and artfully presented cuisine, is an experience like none other.

Flowing from the spectacular main lobby of the St. Regis hotel, Cero’s polished stainless steel entrance gate leads diners to what can only be described as a culinary experience. Service here is unmatched, but effortless. Generously open, the dining area presents a breathtaking view of the Atlantic Ocean through sixteen-foot tall windows. Sleek marble floors, high ceilings and a soothing, neutral palate of blues, grays and buffs create an impression of space and light - one never need feel cramped here.

The menu is as impressive as the setting. Cero focuses on the abundance of fresh seafood found in Florida. The menu changes seasonally, and offers an amazing variety of fish and shellfish as well as a selection of prime beef, lamb and pasta options. Before beginning, I do recommend a visit with Cero’s sommelier, Christopher Covolo. Friendly, approachable and truly passionate about wine, Christopher is an invaluable resource for wine lovers - the combination of his intimate knowledge of the two hundred fifty labels under his care and his familiarity with the menu truly bring out the best in both. New wine lovers need not be intimidated by his title, Christopher’s love for his subject matter translates into an approachable and informative experience.

My own dining experience started with the signature Orchid Martini. Sweet and smooth, it is made with pear vodka, Chambord, Cointreau, pear nectar and comes garnished with a freshly picked orchid. Cero’s dedication to presentation soon becomes evident as appetizers arrive -every dish reflects an astonishing attention to detail along with a playful flair. The Cream of Lobster and She-Crab bisque is a show-stopper - a creamy, light bisque topped with succulent lump crab. Saut’eed House Made Gnocchi offers a firm bite and a bit of heat. Spiced with red pepper, shaved black truffle, first press olive oil and garnished with spicy heirloom tomato, this gnocchi is lighter than its more traditional predecessor, satisfying without being overly filling. For those sashimi aficionados, Cero offers the freshest possible Sashimi Style Bluefin Tuna and Hamachi. With jalapeno gelee and wasabi rice foam, the sashimi is very attractively presented and lightly garnished, allowing for a full exploration of the fish’s flavor.

Fresh seafood is the focus of Cero’s menu, echoing the abundant variety and choice South Florida offers. A Butter Poached Lobster is served without the shell atop a caramelized stone fruit for the perfect juxtaposition of savory and sweet. Salmon, a stolid, staple item on many menus, is transformed in Cero’s Herb Encrusted Organic Salmon - a delicate, perfectly cut fillet of salmon is cooked to just right, flaking easily on the fork while losing none of its rich, classic salmon color. Served atop a spicy green papaya and herb salad, this is far from a tired staple dish, and will appeal to seafood lovers of all stripes. If seafood is not your preference, Cero also offers a variety of meat dishes - from a tender Three Cheese Pear and Fiochetti Pasta, deftly combining the richness of cheese with the sweet crunch of pear, to a melt-in-your-mouth veal chop.

Dessert is a playful affair, offering rich indulgences alongside lighter plates. Key Lime Lollipops are delightful, tart morsels cleverly presented on long skewers for sensual enjoyment. Paired with coconut sorbet and mango pudding, this dessert is both light and fun. For the more adventurous, there is a Hibiscus Cr’eme Brulee, served with Grapefruit Granite. Pastry chef Jordi Panisello departs from the classic cr”eme brulee presentation, encasing his lighter whipped custard in a delicate ball of golden sugar. Still satisfying to tap open with a spoon, the sweet custard is delicate and intriguingly flavored. The grapefruit granite offers another surprise - it pops on the tongue due to the clever introduction of the schoolyard favorite, Pop Rocks! Far from silly, Cero’s desserts are classically and beautifully presented, as pleasing to the eye as to the palate.

Executive Chef Toby Joseph has expertly captured the flair and taste of South Florida in his fresh, expertly executed menu. The Cero experience is unparalleled - expert service, beautiful, delicious cuisine, set in a fabulous dining area with sweeping views of the ocean. Cero is fresh, fun, and extremely accommodating. The atmosphere, along with the outstanding cuisine, is sure to impress even the most jaded dining elite - prepare for delight!

Cero is located at 1 N. Fort Lauderdale Beach Boulevard at the St. Regis Resort in Fort Lauderdale. For more information, visit call the restaurant at (954) 302-6460 or visit them online at www.cerorestaurant.com.

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